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Engineering Bluebot The design of a flexible autonomous robotics experimentation platform.
All images, text and code is ©1995-2008 by Alex Franke. All rights reserved. Published: Jun 15, 2001 Updated: Oct 28, 2006
In this article:
Introduction BluebotBlueBot is a platform for autonomous robot experimentation, engineered around a
specific set of motors. It's in itself an experiment in mixing easy-to-find components
and custom components, with the end goal being a well-engineered, compact, flexible
and expandible platform for experimentation and development. It's a learning tool in
development, construction and customization. Some of the requirements were predefined,
while others were dictated by available tools and parts.
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Drive Motors
It all started with four Globe motors I picked up on Ebay. These particular motors are
apparently used for autonomous robotics competitions, so I thought they'd be perfect
for this application.
 Globe motor
Two of these drive gearmotors are fastened under the chasis, each driving one side wheel.
To keep BlueBot compact, I decided to offset these motors from the center axes
of the wheel axels. This has a couple of benefits. First, it's easier to control
the wheel-to-motor speed ratio. Second, I avoid the temptation of mounting
the wheels directly onto the motor shafts. Although these motors could probably
handle the weight of the robot with no problem, I though it best to separate
the two.
Chasis
The chasis is constructed from sheet metal and requires a few cuts, a few bends and
a bunch of holes for mounting. My goal in designing the chasis was to make it
compact and as easy as possible to produce. I started off with a flat piece, and
made a few cuts and bends to contain the motors. The motors are housed
underneath the chasis in the two narrower sections. You can see one set of
mounting holes on each side of the chasis. Because the motors hang under the
chasis, a single bend of the sheet metal is not strong enough to
hold them in place. Therefore, a strap is added to the non-mounted end of
the motor to hold it steady. (Mounting holes for the strap are not shown.) The
long slots at the back of the chasis allow for circuitry venting. The back
corners were cut diagonal to match the general octagonal shape I ended up
with.
 Bluebot's ChasisDrive
I decided on interchangable sprockets with a #25 roller chain for drive. Here's a couple
of bottom views (top=front). The chain is not shown in their views, and the
sprockets pictured are not notched all the way around, but you can get the
general idea of how they are aligned.
 Drive System & Motor Mounts Underbelly Shot #2
Here you can see the two motors mounted onto the sheet metal chasis. The top
(front) motor controls the wheel shown on the left (though it's actually the
right wheel). You can also see a few of the custom parts from this view. The
first is the wheel itself, which was designed around easy-to-find vacuum cleaner
o-rings. The next custom part is the wheel hub, and the final custom part is
the pillow block. The four (yellow-gold) pillow blocks used to hold the axles
in place. The "wings" that support the wheels are strengthened from above
(more later). There is space between the two axles to house the encoder electronics.
The holes at the bottom (rear) of the chasis are used to fasten circuit boards
and provide venting. An enclosed motor driver circuit (not shown) and a fan (if
necessary, not shown) are also mounted beneath the chasis at the rear of the bot.
If a fan is used, it is pointed down, bringing cool air through the PCBs above
the chasis and the heat sinks of the motor driver board below the chasis. I
suppose you could point the fan up if you want BlueBot to vaccuum, but you'll
end up with dirty electronics.
Drive Wheels Bluebot's Wheel
I originally wanted to make the wheels with the stack of AOL CDs
I've collected over time. The ~4 3/4" diameter of the CDs would give the bot
more speed and the ability get over simple household obsticles. (The gear
motors offer a pretty good torque rating.) For tread, I considered a number
of easy-to-find products, such as rubber bands, balloons, o-rings, and even the
plastic tubing you use in fish tanks. O-rings look the best, and I figured
they'd be easy to find and cheap. Unfortunately o-rings of this size are neither
easy to find nor cheap ($6 each locally, or I could buy a lot of 20 online and
pay shipping, too).
I did, however, find ~4" diameter o-rings in the vacuum cleaner
section of the hardware store, and since kludging the CD wheel solution was
giving me problems, I went back to the drawing board and designed a custom
wheel, which can be cut from 1/4" plastic. I added holes for the axle and for
mounting, and a groove to hold the vacuum cleaner o-rings into place.
The hubs are another custom part and serve to fasten each wheel to
its own axle. Only the set screw holes are threaded, and since the threads need
to be strong enough to hold the wheels to their axles, I thought this should be
a metal part. The following images show an enlargement of the hub, and the wheel
assembly.
Wheel Mount Mounting Block
The drive wheels are held in place
with four custom bearing housings. The body of each housing is broken into
four secions: the base (shown at the top of the image), the top (shown at the
bottom) and two shims. The shims allow the user to adjust the distance from the
chasis to the axle in four 0.1" increments, thereby assuring a resonably tight
chain fit. The base is slightly narrower than the other parts to allow it to fit
snugly between two easy-to-find L-shaped aluminim bars. I use sections of these
L-shaped bars to reinforce chasis, and for other porposes as well. The
half-circle between the mounting screws allows space for wires to be
run.
 Wheel Assembly
The following image shows how the wheel (grey), hub (brass), pillow blocks (yellow),
L-shaped strengthening bars (green), motor and sprockets fit on the chasis
(blue). Note the notch cut out of the opposite end of one of the green
structural supports (lower right-hand corner of the image). This notch allows
extra space for the chain for the wheel that is not shown. There's a notch for
the other wheel, too, but it's mostly hidden by the wheel sprocket. I chose
sprockets, by the way, because there are a few online sources for inexpensive
surplus sprockets. Gears would have provided a little less flexibility at a
higher cost.
Caster Rear Wheel
BlueBot's back wheel has the same
mounting holes as the front wheel but is sized to fit smaller o-rings. There's a
30-degree bend in the axle to allow it to swivel as the robot turns. The axle is
held in place with a couple of shaft collars on either side of a mounting block,
allowing the height to be adjusted up and down as needed. The mounting
block is fastened to the back of the chasis.
Deck 1 Deck One
In this configuration, BlueBot's motors are powered by a
standard sized 7AH sealed lead acid (SLA) battery, positioned so that the bot's
center of gravity is low and adequately behind the front axles. There is space
behind the SLA battery for 3 full-sized circuit boards (many are smaller), and
space in front of it for sensor circuitry. You can see the additional
L-shaped structural support (green) in this image as well. The tall square
spacers support Deck 2.
Head & Deck 2
The head mechanism is built around a standard hobby servo
and a 1.8-degree stepper motor that I salvaged from an old HP
ScanJet scanner. It's pictured here attached to Deck 2. The stepper
motor is mounted below Deck 2 and provides panning for the head. Some bots
simply turn the wheels to pan, but I believe this is the more ideal solution
because the wheels should only be concerned with moving the robot. This also
allows the robot, for example, to scan side to side while driving.
 Deck Two
The hobby servo motor (black), which provides
the tilt, is mounted to the shaft of the stepper motor with a custom plastic
piece (dark gray). You can just see how the corners of the pice are rounded to
allow full tilt of the head without interfering with the sheet metal shell.
A sensor or camera (not shown) is mounted behind the front of the head (the face) by drilling
the appropriate mounting holes. Supporting circuitry resides behind the head so as not
to add unnecessary weight to the head.
The Result
This is what I ended up with.
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